Lower Ball Joint Replacement - Tacoma
Introduction
Hello, today I’m going to walk you through replacing lower ball joints on a 1996 Toyota Tacoma. These Tacomas can get very rusty so make sure you have some penetrating oil (I used moovit).
- This How-To is applicable on all 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Toyota Tacomas.
- Torque specs are located at the bottom of this How-To
New > Old ball joint
Estimated Time: 45 mins per side
Tools Required
- 1/2" impact wrench (optional)
- Breaker Bar
- Torque Wrench
- 2 hammers
- 1/2" ratchet
- 24mm socket (tie rod end castle nut)
- 7/8" deep socket (ball joint castle nut)
- 9/16" deep socket (4 bolts on oem ball joint)
- 2 or 3 ton jack
- Jack stand(s)
- Brakleen
- Moovit
Parts Required
- Napa 260-1520
- Napa 260-1519
Step 1: Jack up the vehicle (safety check)
We jacked the vehicle up under the inner lower control arm mount
Be sure to position jack stands under the frame while working under the vehicle.
Then lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.
Step 2: Lubricating workspace
Use penetrating oil (I use moovit) to help loosen up the corroded nuts and bolts.
- Tie Rod end
- Lower Ball Joint
Tie rod end castle nut:
Lower Ball Joint castle nut:
Step 3: Remove Lower ball joint nut and Tie rod end nut
Try and remove the tie rod end cotter pin, then remove the 24mm castle nut.
Note: Our cotter pin snapped off due to corrosion.
Use an impact wrench to prevent the tie rod end from "spinning".
Next, remove the lower ball joint castle nut. We used a deep 7/8" socket because the impact wrench wouldn't fit.
Step 4: Removing Lower ball joint
With the tie rod end castle nut and lower ball joint castle nut removed, it's now time to free the wheel assembly from the lower ball joint.
To do this, make sure the jack it isn't pressing on your control arm. With help from somebody, use two hammers to smack the lower ball joint mount at the same time. Couple of good hits and it will free.
(This can also be done with just one person, it's just easier with two)
The wheel assembly is now free from the control arm (A-arm):
Using a piece of metal wire or cable, hang the wheel assembly away from the working area.
Now with the lower ball joint free from the control arm It's now time to remove the ball joint. Using a 9/16" deep socket, remove all 4 bolts that are mounted on the underside of the lower ball joint (attached to the wheel assembly)
With the old ball joint imploded in grease we decided to clean the surrounding areas with Brakleen :
Step 5: Install new ball joint
With the old ball joint out its time to install the new one.
If applicable, make sure you install the new Zerk fitting (Grease Nipple).
Note: (Adding grease)
- If you have a grease gun on hand, it's not a bad idea to grease your new ball joint (some ball joints come with assembly grease, but you should still add some to ensure longevity on your joint).
Install the lower ball joint with the 4 included bolts
Then with the ball joint attached to the control arm, tighten the castle nut. Torque to 118 ft-lb (Please comment if incorrect, I couldn't find a straight answer online)
Don't forget your cotter pin!
Now put the tie rod end back together and wheel and your job is now finished!
Torque specs: (Comment if incorrect)
- Tie rod End castle nut - Tight
- Lower Ball Joint castle nut - 118 ft-lb