Toyota 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8 Timing Belt Replacement Part 1
Estimated Time: 6-7 Hours
Tools:
10mm 3/8" socket
12mm 3/8" socket
14mm 3/8" socket
3/8" ratchet or compact impact wrench
12mm wrench
19mm wrench
22mm 1/2" impact socket
1/2" impact wrench
Die grinder with green 3m roloc disc or drill with wire wheel
Slip joint pliers
Parts:
AISIN TKT021 w/ Hydraulic Tensioner
-It is not necessary, but I recommend replacing these wear items, too:
AISIN FBT002 Radiator Fan Clutch Bearing Bracket
GATES 23311 Lower Radiator Hose
GATES 22166 Upper Radiator Hose
GATES 38488 DriveAlign Premium OE Automatic Belt Tensioner
GATES K060878 Premium OE Micro-V Belt
Step 1:
Twist draincock counter-clockwise (CCW) and start draining engine coolant into an appropriate receptacle.
Step 2:
Loosen intake tube hose clamps at air box and throttle body. Disconnect the PCV and AIR VSV hoses that attach to the air box assembly.
Step 3:
Release hose clamp and remove lower radiator hose from thermostat housing. Release hose clamp and remove upper radiator hose from water inlet on block.
Step 4:
Remove four 12mm nuts holding fan clutch onto bracket. Use a long handle screwdriver or pry bar and wedge it in between one nut and the center of the pulley. Apply a clockwise (CW) force on screwdriver handle to steady fan clutch and assist with removal of fan clutch nuts.
(Pro Tip: leave the fan clutch and fan unit in the fan shroud and pull the assembly out as one. This will minimize additional steps. Please be careful with the radiator fins.)
Step 5:
Remove radiator attachment hardware. This can be done 2 different ways. Remove four 12mm bolts through the core support and pull out radiator and bracket as one assembly. Or, remove the two upper and two lower 12mm bolts through the bracket and into the radiator end tanks.
(Pro Tip: detaching and setting aside the transmission cooler may be necessary depending on which course of action you choose. Either way, there is no need to fully remove the cooler and detach the hoses; there is ample freeplay with the cooler loose from the core support.)
Step 6:
Detach and set aside transmission cooler hoses from radiator shroud.
Step 7:
Place fan clutch assembly into the fan shroud and carefully pull up to remove the radiator assembly from the core support.
Step 8:
Use a 14mm socket and place on belt tensioner. Twist CCW to loosen tension from belt and remove drive belt from the pulleys.
Step 9:
Disconnect pressure sensor connector at power steering pump switch. Align power steering pump pulley to remove one 14mm nut and two 14mm bolts. Pull the power steering pump forward and secure it to the core support with a bungee cord.
(Pro Tip: tag and bag bolts as you pull them out. The hardware may seem indistinguishable to the untrained eye.)
Step 10:
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove 10mm nut at alternator post, pry up and remove the harness stay, and remove the ELD connector. Remove the two nuts and one bolt that secure the alternator to the timing cover.
Step 11:
Detach compressor from timing cover by removing three 14mm bolts from the side case, and one 12mm nut from the bracket on the oil filter housing. Lift compressor off from its hanger and place it off to the side. Safely hang the compressor using a bungee cord or other appropriate means.
Step 12:
Remove two 12mm bolts. Pull up on and twist thermostat housing. Remove one 10mm nut and one 10mm bolt to free oil filter housing hoses from the timing cover. Remove thermostat housing and cooler hoses as one unit.
Step 13:
Remove all 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut securing the passenger's side timing belt inspection cover.
Step 14:
Disconnect the engine harness from the VTC actuator, CMP sensor and throttle body and place it out of the way, on the side of the cylinder head. Remove all 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut securing the driver's side timing belt inspection cover.
(Pro Tip: place hardware in the removed components and organize those components as they are removed.)
Step 15:
Remove 12mm bolt from upper timing cover piece. Remove nuts and bolt securing the drive belt tensioner to the timing cover.
Step 16:
Remove the 14mm bolt securing the idler pulley to the fan clutch bracket. Remove 14mm nuts and bolts from radiator fan bracket. (I keep the nuts on the studs to affix the pulley and remove as one unit.)
Step 17:
Using a 22mm and ratchet, rotate crankshaft pulley/harmonic damper until the notch on the pulley is at the 0 degrees mark on the timing cover. Confirm that this is TDC by inspecting the camshaft pulley, too. There is a notch in the pulley that should line up with a "vertical dash" on the inside of the cover.
(Pro Tip: I mark every timing mark with a paint pen to make it more pronounced.)
Step 18:
Use an impact gun to remove the 22mm bolt through crankshaft pulley/harmonic damper. Spray the crankshaft snout with a penetrating oil and, carefully, use a flathead screwdriver (or similar device) to gently pry and slide the pulley off from behind.
Step 19:
Remove all 10mm bolts securing the lower timing cover to the block. Pull off the CKP tone ring and carefully set it aside.
Step 20:
Remove two 12mm bolts from the timing belt tensioner. Pull tensioner down and out of its bore. Carefully slide the timing belt off from the smooth pulley for the slack adjuster.
Step 21:
Remove the 10mm allen head sleeve from the slack adjuster; pull out and remove slack adjuster.
Step 22:
Remove 14mm nut and washer for timing belt idler pulley. Discard pulley, but reuse the washer and 14mm nut for the new idler pulley.
Step 23:
Remove all 14mm nuts and bolts securing the water pump to the front of the block. Wiggle and gently pry the water pump loose.
Step 24:
Clean the mating surface of the water pump with a 3M roloc disc or a wire wheel. Be fastidious because this surface needs to be nearly perfect in order for the water pump to properly seal.
Tutorial is continued in next post:
Toyota 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8 Timing Belt Replacement Part 2
